The definitive guide to Levi’s Orange Tab bellbottom jeans

If you’re into vintage fashion, then Levi’s Orange Tab bellbottom jeans are an iconic piece worth understanding. Famous for their style and distinct features, these jeans have left their mark on different eras of fashion, and knowing how to date them can help collectors and vintage enthusiasts alike. In this guide, we'll explore some important aspects that make Orange Tab jeans so unique.

A brief history of Levi’s Orange Tab jeans

Levi’s introduced their Orange Tab line in the late 1960s as an affordable alternative to their classic Red Tab jeans. While Red Tab jeans were workwear staples, the Orange Tab was designed with a younger, more style-conscious audience in mind. These jeans were often made from lighter-weight denim, with experimental cuts and details that reflected the fashion trends of the time, particularly the counterculture of the 60s and 70s. One of the most famous styles was the bellbottom—perfectly in tune with the era's love for flared silhouettes.

Key identifiers of Levi’s Orange Tab bellbottoms

Understanding the details of Orange Tab jeans can help you identify the era they came from. Here are a few key things to look out for:

1. Zippers

The zipper is one of the first features to check when dating Levi’s Orange Tab jeans. Different brands and types of zippers were used across various decades, and this can give a good indication of the jeans' age:

• Conmar zippers – These were used in the 1940s and 1950s, and occasionally in the early 60s.
• Talon zippers – These were prominent throughout the 1950s and 60s.
• Lightning zippers – Another popular option in the 1950s and 60s.
• Zipper Gripper – Commonly seen between the 1950s and 60s.
• Scomill zippers – Also used during the 1950s and 60s.
• 42 Talon zippers – Became more prominent in the late 60s and throughout the 70s.
• Levi’s branded zippers – Started in the 1980s and continue to be used in modern versions of Levi’s jeans.

2. The Orange Tab itself

One of the easiest identifiers for Orange Tab jeans is, of course, the tab on the back pocket. In 1971, Levi’s made a significant switch, altering the text on the tab from a capital "E" to a lowercase "e":

• LEVI’s (with a capital "E") was used before 1971, though some jeans continued to use the capital "E" up until 1976.
• Levi’s (with a lowercase "e") became standard after 1971, making it a key dating feature.

3. Care instructions

Before 1974, Levi’s used stamped care instructions on the inside of the jeans. If you find care instructions printed directly on the denim, this likely means the jeans were made before 1974. After 1973, Levi’s switched to a sewn-in care tag, making this another easy clue to the jeans' age.

4. Factory codes

The factory code is typically stamped on the back of the closure button. This can help you identify not only the time period but also the factory where the jeans were made:

• 3-digit code – Jeans produced after 1981 will have a three-digit factory code.
• Shorter codes – Pre-1981 jeans will have a shorter code, typically a one- or two-digit number.

5. Date codes

Levi’s also used a system of date coding. Jeans produced before the 1990s typically have a two- or three-digit code, while those from the 90s and later have four digits. These numbers represent the month and year the jeans were made. For example:

• 052 = May 1972 (05 = May, 2 = last digit of the year)

6. Lot number and material code

The lot number is another key identifier for collectors. The number 0217 indicates the use of Sanforized denim, a process used to minimize shrinkage in the fabric.

Conclusion

Levi’s Orange Tab bellbottom jeans are not just a fashion statement—they’re a piece of history. From the type of zippers used to the subtle changes in the tab and care labels, these details help define the era these jeans were crafted in. Whether you’re a vintage enthusiast or a collector, knowing these distinctions will give you a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship and cultural impact of these iconic jeans.