Beginner sewing questions, answered
Hi, hello. These are the questions I get asked the most about learning to sew. Short answers here, and every one links to the full free tutorial.
Getting started
What do I need to start sewing?
A machine, polyester thread, extra bobbins, a variety pack of needles, good fabric scissors you guard with your life, thread snips, a seam ripper, and pins or clips. Add a soft tape measure, an iron that steams and lots of practice fabric, and you're set. Full supply list
Do I need a new or expensive sewing machine?
Nope. If it turns on and sews a straight line, it's enough, so go get grandma's out of the closet or check the thrift store. If you'd rather buy new, I sew on a Singer Heavy Duty (the 6700C and 6800C are both great). Get one from Singer with code YOUHAVETIMETOWASTE, or on Amazon. Supply list
What don't I need as a beginner?
A serger, a dress form, a drawer full of presser feet, or patterns. Trace clothes you already own and use your body instead of a dress form. Supply list
How do I thread a sewing machine?
Get the take-up lever, needle and presser foot all the way up. Run the thread through the first guide, down and around the tension discs, up through the take-up lever, then down to the needle, front to back. Step by step
What should my first sewing project be?
A tote bag. One 11 x 22 in piece plus two 3 x 26 in straps makes a 10 x 10 in bag, and it's just a few straight stitches. Tote bag tutorial
Why do I have to back stitch?
It ties the knot so your stitches don't come undone. Back stitch at the start and end of every line, and if you're not sure, back stitch. Supply list and basics
Tools and presser feet
What size needle should I use?
The bigger the number, the thicker the fabric. I use 80 or 90 for lightweight fabric and 100 or 110 for denim, quilts and anything thick. Supply list
How often should I change my needle?
Every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or every new project. I keep track with a little Sew Remind Me sticker on my machine. Needle reminder post
Should I use pins or clips?
I like pins you can iron right over, since plastic heads can melt onto your clothes. Clips are handy for thick layers but hit or miss for darts. Supply list
What does a walking foot do?
It feeds multiple layers evenly, so the top layer doesn't shift ahead of the bottom. It's my go-to for thick stuff, quilts, knits and slippery fabric. Walking foot tutorial
Do I need a serger?
Not right now. An overcast foot wraps your raw edges in a zigzag so they don't fray. Set the stitch width to at least 5 or the needle hits the foot. Overcast foot tutorial
Why does my bobbin keep jamming?
Usually the bobbin wasn't wound tight enough. Snip it free, reload, and fill a bunch of bobbins before you start so you can just drop in a new one. Walking foot tutorial
Fit and measuring
How do I measure myself for sewing?
Grab a soft tape measure. The ones I use most are shoulders, pit to pit, waist, hips at the widest part, torso length and skirt length. How to measure yourself
How do I figure out rise and crotch depth?
Divide your hips by 4 for the rise, by 20 for the front depth and by 10 for the back. Or lay pants that fit on your fabric, scoot and cut. Rise and crotch depth
How do I take in a dress that's too big?
Pin the same amount on each seam (I did about 3/4 in) and taper back into the original seam so it doesn't pucker. Check the darts first. Beginner alterations
Techniques
What seam allowance should I use?
It doesn't really matter which one, as long as you stick to it for the whole project. I like 5/8 in. Rectangle dress sew-along
What does "cute sides kissing" mean?
Right sides together: the cute sides face each other and the ugly sides face out. Tote bag tutorial
What is understitching?
An extra line of stitching that sews your seam allowance to the lining, so the lining stays inside instead of rolling out. Clip your curves first. Understitching tutorial
How do I finish a neckline with bias tape?
Pin it to the cute side, open side facing the neck hole, and stitch along the first fold. Flip it to the inside, press, and stitch again. Bias tape tutorial
How do I fix a hole in a sweater without knitting?
For a split seam, pin and backstitch from half an inch before to half an inch after. For a snag, don't cut it, ease it back in with a needle. Sweater repair
No-pattern projects
Can I sew clothes without a pattern?
Yep. My two-cut top is a folded square. A bog jacket is one rectangle where every piece you cut becomes part of the jacket. My rectangle dress is four rectangles and some elastic.
Don't feel like sewing it? Shop my handmade pieces, or see all my free tutorials in one place.
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