Vintage clothing questions: dating, sizing and fabric
Hi, hello. We dig through a lot of old clothes. Here's how we figure out what's actually vintage, what size it really is, and what it's made of.
Is it really vintage?
How can you tell if clothing is vintage?
Start with the tags, then check the construction. One clue doesn't prove much, but when two or three line up, like no care tag, a metal zipper and a union label, you can feel pretty confident. Tag-reading guide
What does it mean if there's no care label?
It's a good sign the piece is older. US care labels only became required in the early 1970s, so no care tag (and nobody cut it out) usually means it was made before then. Tag-reading guide
What does a union label like ILGWU tell you?
That the piece has some age on it. Union labels were sewn into US-made clothes for decades, and the logo design changed over time, so the style of the tag helps narrow down the decade. Tag-reading guide
Can an RN number date clothing?
Not to an exact year, but it helps. RN numbers started in 1959, and you can plug one into the FTC's free RN lookup to see who made the piece. Tag-reading guide
Are metal zippers a sign of vintage?
Usually. Metal zippers point to mid-century, especially ones stamped Talon, Crown or Conmar. Nylon coil zippers took over from the late '60s on. Tag-reading guide
How do you tell if a t-shirt is vintage?
Check the sleeve and bottom hems. A single line of stitching usually means the '80s or earlier, and old tag brands like Hanes or Screen Stars are a good sign. Why vintage tees cost more
Can vintage look brand new?
Yep. Deadstock is never-worn vintage with its original tags. Reproductions are made to look old on purpose, though, so check the tags and construction. Tag-reading guide
How do you date a vintage tablecloth?
Fabric first, then print and tags. Heavy cotton or linen with big screen-printed fruit or florals usually means the late '30s through the '50s. Poly blends in harvest gold and avocado are '60s and '70s. Tablecloth guide
Sizing
What size am I in vintage clothes?
Forget the tag and go by measurements. Compare your bust, waist, hips and inseam to the garment's flat measurements doubled, and leave an inch or two of room because woven vintage doesn't stretch. Vintage sizing guide
Were people smaller in the past?
Not really. Vanity sizing pushed size numbers down over the decades, the smaller clothes survived because nobody wore them out, and a lot of pieces were taken in along the way. Myth, debunked
Why does vintage run so small?
Mostly vanity sizing. Labeled sizes got smaller over the years while the actual measurements stayed the same, so a vintage size runs a lot smaller than the same number today. Myth, debunked
Should I buy vintage a little big?
If you're not sure, yes. It's easy to take something in, but there's only so much seam allowance to let out. Vintage sizing guide
Fabrics
How do you tell if silk is real?
The burn test is the clearest. Real silk burns slowly, smells like burning hair and leaves a dark bead that crushes to powder, while polyester melts into a hard bead. Use more than one test, because blends exist. Silk guide
How do you tell cotton from polyester?
Ball up a corner in your fist for ten seconds and let go. Cotton stays creased and poly bounces back. Tablecloth guide
Brands and labels
What's the difference between Levi's Red Tab and Orange Tab?
Red Tab is the classic line, and the tab dates back to 1936. Levi's launched Orange Tab in 1969 for younger shoppers who wanted flares, bell bottoms and zipper flies. Red Tab history
How do you spot WWII-era Levi's?
Missing rivets, no cinch back, plain laurel-leaf buttons, and back pockets with no visible stitching. Thread was rationed, so the arcuate was painted on, and on a lot of pairs it washed off. Red Tab history
How do you date a L'Aiglon or Jonathan Logan dress?
For L'Aiglon, a registered trademark R on the tag means 1963 or later. For Jonathan Logan, the sub-label tells you the era, like Bleecker Street for late 1966 through 1974. L'Aiglon and Jonathan Logan
Why is vintage so expensive?
Rarity, demand and the hunt. Even a $2 find from the bins means hours of digging, gas money and a lot of gloves I end up throwing away. Why that shirt costs that much
Want the real thing? Shop true vintage or vintage tees.